Could you tell me a time you felt connected?

It's a dull cold morning on the North coast of Scotland. I’m packing up the van with boards and wetsuits. My hands are numb while a harsh, icy wind blows through me. I spent the evening before, examining the forecasts and charts but the conditions weren’t looking promising. However I was determined to go surfing so I picked a spot that could have potential and started driving.

Its often hard to stay inspired and connected with yourself and your surroundings- especially in the cold, dark winters- but ever since I caught the surfing bug, it gave me this endless drive and passion to make the most of everyday no matter what.

As I made my way along the coast, my surroundings slowly started getting covered with a beautiful blanket of snow. The roads were quiet as everyone was hibernating in their warm houses. I caught glimpses of the sea which appeared to be choppy with very little signs of any swell, and i started to accept that a surf was probably not on the cards.

I turned off onto an icy dirt track and eventually reached my destination. My friend Sheila had already arrived and we made our way up and over the sand dunes to finally check the conditions. We paused and watched the waves for 5 minutes. It didn’t look great…But gathering all the motivation I had within me I stripped my warm layers off and battled into my wetsuit. With hot water we defrosted our boots and gloves, slid them on and ran down to the water with our biggest surfboards.

Without hesitating I paddled out into the river which started floating me out to sea- along with big chunks of ice!. This little corner of the coast was totally sheltered from the wind and perfect wee waves were rolling in, while bigger lines of swell were appearing on the horizon. Suddenly it felt like everything was coming together. As soon as I got in position, a lovely wall of water picked me up and I flew all the way back to the shore. This instantly lit an energy inside me and I paddled back out and caught wave after wave after wave. Sheila was just over from me also in sync with the rhythm of the waves- Theres’ no better feeling than being connected with the uncontrollable elements around you. Every now and again we’d exchange smiles and chat about how lucky we are!

No one else was around, just us and the wonderful river, waves and hills. Everything felt so still. Then thick white flakes started falling from the sky! We continued surfing through the snow storm, occasionally pausing to take it all in.

I often find my best surfs- and moments in general- happen when I don’t expect it. I caught my final wave in, savouring every sweet moment and then walked back up through the dunes. Any doubts and worries were left behind, floating out to sea.