Could you tell me a time you felt focused?

When the waves are serious and pumping I find it easier to be focused or in the “flow state” where your mind is cleared and everything happens naturally - the muscle memory kicks in and surfing becomes automatic. This is when I surf the best. I wish I could be in this ‘zone’ for every surf but I definitely find it easier to get there in quality surf where I am excited about the prospect of getting barreled. As soon as you have any thoughts or doubts whilst riding a wave this leads to hesitation and the focus is lost.

@markboydsurf